HAYNES WORLD

Sunday 21st June 2015
We are due to arrive in Marseille at 8 a.m. on board JEAN NICOLI so there was ample time to start the day with the ship's enjoyable Buffet Breakfast Menu as we approached the port. On our way into our berth we passed two cruise ships: COSTA DIADEMA and RIVIERA, which had already arrived at their berths.

Sailing past Chateau d'If

Costa Diadema and Riviera were in port

Riviera

Zenith in the distance

Methania

Corse

Kalliste

Once off the ship we had to take the ferry shuttle bus (free of course) to the terminal building to decide our plans for the day. We decided to be proper tourists so strolled along the dual-carriageway boulevard on the sea-side to enjoy looking at the pictures on the fencing. The local authorities have been building things here for years, but it now seems that they may have nearly accomplished what they planned. The pictures showed things in 1995 (in black and white) and now in 2015 (in colour) and they were quite a contrast. It was amazing to look around and see no building sites or traffic chaos because of diversions - certainly down here at the port area - but of course it was different just a mile behind us, in the city.

Decisions made, we took a number 60 local bus to the church of Notre Dame de la Garde, up on the hill above the city. The golden statue was eye-catching in the bright sunlight and we enjoyed looking around the ramparts and then inside the church. Outside the views were panoramic, looking towards the ferry port and cruise ship terminal, or towards the Isles du Frioul just outside the port.

Notre Dame de la Garde

Long view

The Church Cross

View over the port

Frioul Islands

Chateau d'If

Jesus dans la barque

Another air-conditioned number 60 local bus took us back down to the city and the Vieux Porte where we wanted to catch a pleasure craft to take us out to the Chateau d'If.

We were soon on our way out to the island, on board AIGLON 3, which is where the novel 'The Count of Monte Cristo' was set by French author Alexandre Dumas, and where many people were jailed in previous centuries. My friends enjoyed ice-creams in the cafe grounds whilst I enjoyed little shortbread-based sables aux dattes with vanilla ice-cream, specially created by the proprietor. The tour of the Chateau was interesting despite the heat and the many steps to climb but the views from the ramparts were worth it. I had happy memories of my first visit here when we saw a dinosaur's descendant - well, it was a tiny lizard, but my mind could imagine its ancestors...

Isles du Frioul

Aiglon 3

Lovely water

View back to the city

and again

We took an afternoon ferry back to the Vieux Porte, marvelling at a few people swimming in the entrance waters but also envying them I suppose.

Sailing back into the Vieux Porte

and seeing the swimmers

A nearby bar supplied Earl Grey tea or cool drinks, and then we were ready to take another local bus number 82 along the boulevard towards the ferry terminals. By this time the Mistral had died down so the sun and tiny breeze were very pleasant.

Tonight we are due to sail on the ro-ro passenger ship PASCAL PAOLI so we were keen to check in and get on board. She was built in 2003 in France, at 35,760 gross tons, so was much bigger than our previous ships. She sails regularly between Marseille and Bastia in Corsica and this is our itinerary. Instead of cabin keys, we had individual cabin cards with a 4 digit code printed on them, and these codes had to be used on the small keypad beside each cabin door handle to gain entry. One surprise in the bathroom was a hairdryer, which is a rarity on the older ferries.

Pascal Paoli

Main bar on Pascal Paoli

On deck

The ship's name

We sailed at 7 p.m. in hot sunshine from Marseille,

View out on deck

Roof-top party on one of the new buildings

Mediterranee

Mediterranee taking the air

El Djazair, Algerian Ferries

Again we passed the Chateau d'If, and also that amazing building on a neighbouring island that looks just like the bow of a ship. What a fun design. The Bar was open and we joined other passengers enjoying a pre-dinner drink, whilst we listened to a two-piece band playing some music.

What a delightful design for a home

The stern Restaurant was a lovely location for dinner, despite the stern ramp being rather noticeably in the view, and the service was rather casual but the food and wine were good value for money. We spent time on deck afterwards enjoying the last views of the mountains as the sun gradually went down. On our port side we could see two of the Sardinia-Corsica Ferries (MEGA SMERALDA and MEGA EXPRESS FOUR) heading into or from the port of Toulon.

Sardinia-Corsica Ferries in the far distance

MEGA SMERALDA will be following us all the way down to Bastia, although at a slightly slower speed, which is fortunate as she is our next sailing tomorrow morning from Bastia. Our arrival time tomorrow on board PASCAL PAOLI was originally to be 8 a.m. which made the connection with MEGA SMERALDA extremely tight, but there was an on board announcement that the arrival time in Bastia would be 7 a.m. That is a great relief! The sea was calm and the light beautiful as we watched sunset from the upper decks.

Ships seen: Riviera, Zenith (Bleu de France) of 1992, Costa Diadema, El Djazair II, Methania, Mediterranee, Pascal Paoli, Corse, Kalliste, Jean Nicoli, Girolata, Aiglon 3 - the little cruise boat for the Chateau d'If, Mega Smeralda, Mega Express Four.

To be continued...

Monday 22nd June 2015
I slept well and enjoyed watching our arrival in Bastia, on the French island of Corsica, from the open decks on PASCAL PAOLI.

As we came alongside, we could see 'restaurant row'and part of the little mountain-side town

Mega Express Two had arrived

Mega Smeralda arrives

Her stern

Pascal Paoli, from the quayside, whilst I was awaiting the shuttle bus

Ships were in port, ships were following us in astern and we were indeed alongside at 7 a.m. I caught the shuttle bus on the quayside to the terminal on the other side of the u-shaped quays whilst my companions took photographs and joined me at the terminal.

Walking towards the terminal I could see Pascal Paoli over the other side, Mega Smeralda ahead of me, and Moby Corse carefully coming astern into the port.

Moby Corse getting nearer

MEGA SMERALDA arrived and once her passengers and cars had disembarked we could get on board. Her distinctive golden hull is very noticeable and I like travelling on these Corsica-Sardinia Ferries; they seem well designed and appealing on board, and I do like the departure and arrival music at every port: The Thieving Magpie overture by Rossini. It always lifts my spirits, as if they weren't already lifted!

Mega Smeralda Reception area

This ship was built in 1985 at 34,694 gross tons, and has always been popular. We left Bastia on time at 8.30 and were so glad that it had been a far less stressful morning than it could have been, with a later arrival. This is our fifth ship of the trip so far, and having left Bastia we are now sailing for Livorno, on the Italian mainland, and due to arrive at 12.45. The sea was as calm as a millpond and sparkling under the hot sun as we headed out from the port.

Deck plan around a pillar

Dancing Palace lounge

Signs on board

Breakfast time

Breakfast in one of the eating areas was most satisfactory especially after getting up so early, and then we could explore some of the passenger facilities on this ship. I had packed my swimming costume in my rucksack to come on holiday, and this morning we all left our rucksacks safely locked into the baggage room near Reception once we came on board. We then discovered there was a swimming pool on the lowest inside deck, together with spa facilities! By then it was impossible to get at our rucksacks, so we could either hire compulsory shoes, swimsuit and bathing hat, or not swim. The hire costs made that decision for us, but at least we were able to see the facilities and remember what to do next time - ah well.

Looking out from the Panorama Bar

Panorama Bar

We visited the Dancing Palace, the double-height lounge bar at the bow, which looked good, various restaurants and cafes midships, and gradually made our way up top to the Panorama Bar, with its comfy seating and bar food. I noticed that one of the Bar drinks was called 'Peace and Love'; I also recognised the carpet pattern, which comes in various colours for use on the Corsica/Sardinia ferries. The views were lovely from this Panorama Bar too, and the air-conditioning most welcome. Outside the sea still glittered and the sun shone and the air was like silk.

I liked this piece of art work

Peace and Love drink

Familiar carpet

The ship's wake

The funnel and logo

Mega Smeralda on deck

Corsica Marina Seconda

Places to eat

Dancing Palace

Dancing Palace Bar

We approached Livorno, which still has those tall silos near the ferry terminal, and as we entered the harbour we could see a small sandy beach that had been created alongside one of the breakwaters, far out from the terminals. People were relaxing on the beach as well as swimming in the sea water. A new quay was under construction near where we berthed.

The little sandy beach

The new quayside under construction, and the beach way off in the distance

Mega Smeralda life ring

We were alongside at 12.30 and soon disembarked as footies with the musical sounds of The Thieving Magpie echoing in our ears. The heat and humidity hit us immediately as we made our way across to the terminal building where hire-car keys were to be collected. One of my friends is to drive us south from here in Livorno to Piombino, where another part of our adventure is to start, involving several more ships to sail on today.

Ships seen: Mega Smeralda, Moby Corse, Mega Express Two, Pascal Paoli, La Suprema in the distance passing Bastia or it might have been La Superba in her old livery still, Corsica Marina Seconda, Puglia in Livorno

To be continued...

Monday 22nd June (contd.)

An hour later we drove into the car park of the Hotel Phalesia, checked in and hurriedly left our big bags. The 200-yard walk down to the harbour was much easier without heavy bags, and it was good to look around and see MOBY LOVE 2 and RIO MARINA before boarding MOBY ALE for the 3.15 p.m. departure. The cars embarked first and then it was the footies.

Moby Ale with cartoon animal

Moby Love 2 nearby

Rio Marina nearby

Moby Ale

She is a dear little ship, built in 1969 as MIKKEL MOLS originally, at 3,937 gross tons, and just ideal for the short crossing from Piombino here on the Italian mainland over to Cavo, the nearest and northerly port on the island of Elba.

Map of Elba, showing Cava

Reception was spacious midships, with a bar and a separate food servery on this main deck, but the most eye-catching item was a children's ball pit, full of coloured balls. This proved popular on this and every Moby ship I sailed on, as Moby obviously realise that if the little ones are happy, then the parents will be too. MOBY ALE also has a slight amount of sheer for such a small ship, which is something of a novelty these days.

Reception

Bar

Moby ballpit

Comfy seating

I also loved the sight of two large door handles at the entrance to the lounge: they were sapphire blue, and made of that wonderful solid glass so often found on ships of this age, with smooth rounded corners and a great depth of colour. I have seen several of these jewel-coloured (red, blue or green) door handles over the years and they never fail to delight me.

Wonderful jewel-coloured glass door handles

Door handles in place

Aethalia leaving

Moby Ale top deck

We arrived at Cavo at 3.45, with our return tickets for MOBY ALE safely in our hands as we disembarked and went ashore. We had time to stroll around and return to board the ship for her 4.25 p.m. sailing. As we approached the ramp I noticed the Captain sitting in the shade of a nearby cafe, and smiled and gestured applause to him for his delightful ship. He immediately spoke to us for a few minutes in English and mentioned that he would like to have invited us to the Bridge but there was an inspector on board and it would not therefore be possible. We had noticed lots of hosing down and window-cleaning on board as well as both the aft and the forward ramp being down whilst we were in Cavo!

Both ends open

Big clean

We sailed on the MOBY ALE at 4.25 p.m. back to Piombino

Getting back on Moby Ale for the return journey

and enjoyed being on deck and watching all the other shipping around us.

Marmorica

Acciarello

Giovanni Bellini

Oglasa

Moby Baby

Moby Baby stern

The harbour had a big breakwater and it was immediately calm as we went astern and berthed at 4.55 p.m. We watched the other ferries around us before leaving the quayside.

Corsica Express Three

Acapulco Jet

Moby Love

Moby Ale setting off again

Next we walked to the nearby small terminal, enjoyed a cappuccino and brioche and then headed back down to the harbour for our next ship of the day.

Ships seen: Moby Ale, Moby Love, Aethalia of Toremar, Rio Marina, Acciarello, Oglasa, Moby Baby, Corsica Express Three, Acapulco Jet, Giovanni Bellini, Marmorica

To be continued...

22nd June 2015 (contd.)

We are to sail on MOBY LOVE this time, leaving at 6p.m. and heading for Portoferraio, the other port on the island of Elba, further west of Cavo; the sailing will take an hour, so there is again time to look at other vessels around us.

Moby Love

Life ring

Map of Elba

MOBY LOVE is slightly newer than MOBY ALE, having been built in 1975 at 7,657 gross tons, as Sealink's SAINT ELOI, and she seemed very spacious. We looked around for remnants of her life as KING ORRY but I didn't find anything. My friends said there were a few references to KING ORRY if you looked hard enough! Again there was a popular ball pit for the children, plus lounge and bar areas, and I noticed several Moby items around, including an inflatable blue plastic whale on a shelf in the back of Reception.

Moby Ale sailed away before we did

Moby Love sign on deck

Moby cargo Luigi PA. was nearby

Tug Algerina Neri

Aethalia was nearby

1975 builders plate

Reception area

When she was new....

Moby logo on the flooring

Seen in the back office

We arrived at Portoferraio at 7 p.m. and were interested to see that the small cruise ship AEGEAN ODYSSEY was waiting to go alongside in the bay.

Aegean Odyssey waiting to turn and berth

Aegean Odyssey in Portoferraio

MOBY BABY was also there, so it was interesting to see her too.

Moby Baby

We disembarked and turned for a final photo of MOBY LOVE, to find that both her ramps were down - fore and aft - which made for an interesting view through the ship.

Open ship

Goodbye Moby Love

Now there was time to go and find a local cafe with freshly cooked food, which proved to be most satisfying and enjoyable. We are to return to Piombino on the mainland on the good ship MARMORICA, of Toremar, and as she had not yet arrived we had time to stroll around the harbour. I met four passengers from the cruise ship AEGEAN ODYSSEY and we enjoyed chatting about our ships and itineraries as we stood on the quayside in the dusk. They loved the size of their ship and the service on board, and were happy to be staying overnight in Portoferraio. They had been unable to land by tender in Bonifacio, Corsica, on the previous day because of heavy seas.

Ships seen: Moby Love, Aegean Odyssey, Marmorica, Moby Baby, Aethalia, Algerina Neri, Moby Cargo Luigi PA

To be continued...

Monday 22nd June (contd.)

Marmorica arrived

Map of Elba

Rio Marina (ex Lora D'Abundo) was nearby

Local fishing vessel

MARMORICA arrived and all the passengers and cars disembarked, so we were soon able to board by climbing the fixed stairways on the quayside. We had walked past a local fishing boat - we could smell it - with the day's washing done and hanging up to dry in the evening heat. MARMORICA was built in 1980, with a gross tonnage of 2,386 so another little ship, sailing for Toremar. Oh, the amazing amount of SHEER, and oh, the PINK. The deck paint on every outside deck was pink, some or all of the carpet was pink in the public rooms, and it was quite a relief to see the now-familiar ball pit for the children with its varied coloured plastic balls. Whilst the dark pink colour on deck was rather eye-catching, I thought it looked quite smart.

The deck plan showed the sheer rather nicely

Up to the lounge

Reception area (with some pink carpet)

Down to the ball pit (with some pink furnishings)

Airline-style seating (plus pink carpet)

On deck (pink)

More pink on the aft top deck

More pink deck

Even more pink

Acciarello arrived

Leaving Portoferraio at dusk

We sailed out of Portoferraio at 9 p.m. on time, enjoying our last sight of the town and harbour, and the cruise ship AEGEAN ODYSSEY.

The harbour in the fading light

Aegean Odyssey

Our last view of Aegean Odyssey

Just over an hour later we arrived and disembarked back at Piombino on the Italian mainland, and headed up the hill for the short walk back to the Hotel Phalesia for an overnight stay. We had enjoyed a five ship day, thanks to the efficient planning by my two travelling companions (and a little bit of luck), and were weary but happy.

Ships seen during the day: Pascal Paoli, Mega Smeralda, Moby Corse, Mega Express Two, La Suprema (?) sailing past Bastia, Corsica Marina Seconda, Moby Ale, Moby Love, Aethalia, Rio arina Bella, Puglia, Corsica Marina Seconda Shuttle, Moby Lally, Moby Baby, Acciarello of Blu Navy, Giovanni Bellini, Aegean Odyssey, Marmorica of Toremar, Oglasa of Toremar, Corsica Express III, Luigi PA, and various fishing boats

To be continued...

Tuesday 23rd June 2015
Overnight the sea breeze and cool air coming in through the open window ensured a good night's sleep, so the alarm clock sounding at an early hour was tolerable. Breakfast was included in our hotel rate so after finishing that we checked out, put rucksacks in the hire car and walked down to the port again. This morning we are to take the 8.10 a.m. MOBY BABY from here in Piombino over to Portoferraio in Elba, and then return on another vessel. This afternoon we are to drive south to Naples, return the hire car to a local agent, and get to the port for an overnight ferry with a fascinating itinerary.

Busy hour

Map of Elba

All went to plan and we were soon on board MOBY BABY (ex-Sealink's EARL GODWIN) which was built in 1967 at 5,667 gross tons as the SVEA DROTT in Sweden by the AB Oresundvarvet at the Landskrona shipyard. In 1974 she was acquired by Sealink Ferries and sailed as the EARL GODWIN before commencing service with Moby Lines.

Moby Baby

She has been sailing this Piombino to Portoferraio route for over 25 years, with her distinctive Moby whale artwork, so we were pleased to be on board. We were even more pleased to find a polished wooden door with an inset glass porthole with the engraved words ORESUNDVARVET LANDSKRONA around the outside edge of the glass. The door did not open from the deck where we found it, but the etched name of the builders could be clearly seen in reverse.

Etched ship builders name

We sailed on time at 8.10 a.m. and enjoyed seeing all the other ships coming and going in the local waters.

Looking down on Acapulco Jet

Looking back to the terminal as the ramp came up

Giovanni Bellini and Oglasa

Giuseppe SA

Up the sheer

Top of the sheer

From Reception we made our way up the sheer to the forward lounge, past the usual ball pit for the children.

The ball pit

The coloured balls

Bar and lounge

Sweeping staircase into reception

The furnishings on board were the expected Moby blue colour; I liked the little sweeping staircase from the upper deck down to the Reception/Information area and of course we all enjoyed being at sea again for our hour-long journey across to Elba, on another ex-Sealink ship.

Moby Lally

Moby Love

Ain't love grand...

We arrived at Portoferraio (again) at 9.10 a.m. and berthed in the ferry port area, ready to disembark into tremendous heat to take photographs of our next ship arriving before getting under cover in the shade of the Port Cafe.

Ships seen: Moby Baby, Moby Love, Moby Lally, Giovanni Bellini, Acapulco Jet

To be continued...

23rd June 2015 (contd.)
Our ship back to Piombino is to be CORSICA EXPRESS THREE which berthed near our table, so we could watch the cars and passengers disembark quickly. Her hull was the golden yellow we have come to expect of a vessel in the Corsica Ferries-Sardinia Ferries group.

Corsica Express Three

We finished our drinks and joined the foot passengers waiting to be allowed to board. The ship was built in 1996 at 3,530 gross tons and is a high speed craft so this sailing will be something of a novelty for us. We had to climb several stairways to reach the access to the lounges on the lower or upper decks. Here we could see a very small kiosk/shop, which was closed for the whole journey. We entered the lower deck seating lounge, which appeared to have a slight sheer because we were still in port. I decided I wanted to see the upper lounge and this was quite different in style and appearance so I settled here after we had sailed.

The closed shop

Lower deck sheer

Up to the upper deck

Bar and Lounge

Life ring

The sunny part of the small open top deck

Moby Baby and Moby Lally further along the quay

The top deck was open and gave us good views of the port and other ships but the sun and heat soon drove us inside again. We sailed at 10.45 a.m. and soon picked up speed as we left the harbour; this time the journey to Piombino will take just half an hour so that should give us a different outlook to compare with a normal sailing. I settled happily in the top lounge and as we sailed and the familiar Thieving Magpies music came out from the loud speakers near the Bar. I moved over and stood underneath to hear and enjoy it, and the Bar Steward smiled and turned it up slightly so we could enjoy it together. The few other passengers in the big lounge didn't seem to mind, and it was soon over. A female uniformed member of staff walked through the Lounge so we smiled at each other. I presumed she had come from the Bridge through the doorway at the forward end of the lounge.

Very comfy seating

I was aware that we were going at quite a speed, and when two male members of staff came to the bar in their white overalls I decided it was time to find out. Polite greetings exchanged I felt I could ask them about the speed of the CORSICA EXPRESS THREE and they seemed happy to tell me we were going at twenty-seven knots.

Announcements soon told us we were approaching Piombino (yet again...!) and that we should be prepared to disembark. All passengers from both decks gathered outside the shop, hearing the usual music as we waited. The uniformed female member of staff soon came along, unlocked the shop and took something out in her hand. To my amazement she smiled at me again and handed me a small gift, of one of the Corsica Ferries-Sardinia Ferries bright yellow key rings with their insignia on it. I thought that was so kind and told her so; we were both happy and I was really surprised and pleased.

Key ring gift

We shook hands and said goodbye all round, and set off down the stairs to the ramp. On the way down we saw the overalled engineers so they said goodbye too - I felt I had somehow done my bit for good international relations this morning!

Back at Piombino we made our way up to the Hotel Phalesia to collect our belongings and the hire car, ready for the afternoon's drive south to Naples.

Piombino on the Italian mainland (near Elba), before heading south to Naples

Ships seen: Moby Baby, Giuseppe SA, Acapulco Jet, Oglasa, Giovanni Bellini, Moby Lally, Aethalia, Moby Love, Marmorica, Aegean Odyssey, Corsica Express Three

To be continued...

Tuesday 23rd June 2015 (contd)

We set off south then to Naples, on a good dual-carriageway road. The middle of the road was full of bougainvillea in full flower, and safely behind big concrete blocks. Swallows were flying overhead in places as they had been for some days and we enjoyed the route with mountains on our land side and occasional views of the sea on the other.

At one point we passed high above the port of Civitavecchia and could look down and see a Cunard liner which might have been QUEEN ELIZABETH, an AIDA cruise ship and another ship which could have been either BONARIA or AMISCORA, the pair of ex-Minoan Lines 'Palaces' which are now employed by Tirrenia.

We provided our own entertainment, without distracting the driver too much, and this began with singing. I am in a local singing group and we have just done our two summer concerts, and many melodies were in my head. My two friends had been in school choirs some years ago, which surprised us all. We sang what I thought was a well-known piece called "The Teddy Bears Picnic", written in 1932, which was fun with our contrasting voices. My choir concerts entitled "Ages and Seasons" included various pieces such as that one, Mozart's "Ave Verum" which is beautiful, and of course "Summer is icumin in" which was huge fun when sung with 4 groups of us starting to sing in turn as a round.

We had a good lunch break at an auto-route complex with time to eat and relax before heading south again, with the beautiful flowers and views around us. This time it was decided to play the classic I-SPY, and we took it in turn to spy something inside the car. My diary noted that just 3 items (one each) took a long time to guess, with much hilarity, and then we needed time for silent contemplation.

We arrived in the vast city of Naples, which had more cobbled streets than we knew about but the directions from the driver's mobile phone proved efficient and we eventually drove into the appropriate parking place for the hire car offices. After that drive in Naples I think we all made mental notes to avoid doing it again in future, if at all possible, although our driver coped heroically.

A taxi took us to the port and we could soon see LAURANA, of Siremar, at the Naples Maritime Terminal building. She was built in 1992 in Italy, at 10,977 gross tons, and we are to sail on her overnight with an unusual itinerary, on our way to Milazzo in Sicily.

Laurana in Naples

Once checked in at 7.30 p.m. and on board, it was interesting to see the map of the Siremar routes around the coast of Sicily, and the location of the islands near to the African coastline.

Sicily and outlying islands

Volcanic area (from Google)

We wanted to leave our bags before going on deck for 8.00 p.m. departure, so headed for our outside cabins. I put the card in my door lock, turned the handle and took a step into the room. To my amazement one of my friends was standing there, and I have to confess I let out a shriek of surprise. I discovered we had adjoining cabins with a door between, and someone had decided to go through the door and stand in front of me as I went in my cabin!

After apologising, we examined our beds and bedding, and were amused to find that although we were on a Siremar ship, our bedding was unexpectedly named. My pillowcase, sheet and duvet cover were all marked with the Tirrenia logo, but a blanket in the wardrobe was bright red, with a large letter 'A' emblazoned on it. That was 'A' for Adriatica, or anything else one chose...

Outside cabin 58

Tirrenia linen on my bunk

Linen

Dressing table and chair

A for Adriatica etc.

The LAURANA was built for Adriatica, hence the blankets. My friends said that in fact she was the very last ship built for that most famous of shipping companies. She wasn't quite the AUSONIA or, for car ferry enthusiasts, the APPIA, but she was the last in a long and very distinguished line.

Photographs took up a few minutes, but eventually we went on deck by the short stern staircase we found just beyond our cabins.

Two of the few pieces of artwork on board

Meanwhile there was lots to see from the open decks - the cruise ship ISLAND ESCAPE was just leaving so we could watch her, and then see SOVEREIGN arrive. The sun was starting to set over the Maritime Terminal and the golden hour was beautiful, whichever way we looked. Volcanic Vesuvius was steaming gently on the other side of the bay, and many ferries could be seen around the bay. The RHAPSODY, previously known to us as the NAPOLEON BONAPARTE, could be seen nearby.

Island Escape leaving

Through the window

Sovereign

Rhapsody, ex-Napoleon Bonaparte

Dimonios

Sovereign stern

Laurana builders plate

Fauno

Capri, in Naples

I liked this

Maritime Terminal at Naples

The Pilot boat

A new Grimaldi ship in drydock

Don Peppino

Moby's Bastia

Volcanic Vesuvius

Another empty pool

We eventually sailed after 8 p.m., watched the Pilot leave, and headed up to the self-service Buffet Restaurant for a meal.

This was as we approached the Restaurant

The food was plentiful, well-presented and excellent value; the Restaurant was full, with people constantly coming and going, and it all seemed to work well. We joined lots of other passengers in the nearby Bar, and admired the lighting around the room.

The islands route

Tomorrow we are due to arrive at Milazzo, on the Italian island of Sicily, at about noon, with several ports of call on the way. Our first call tomorrow morning is just before 6 o'clock so I set my alarm to get up in time - it is to be the volcanic island of Stromboli!

I was really excited about this, along with most of the passengers on board LAURANA I think.

I can remember sailing round one side of the island in darkness once before, standing on the Bridge of the chartered VICTORIA during the Union-Castle Line Centenary Voyage in January 2000. Then we could clearly see the glowing lava and embers coming out of the top of the volcano and flying up into the night sky. I was a director of the re-launched company, and a few of us had been working on the plans for a Centenary Voyage since 1995. My late husband had planned the most wonderful itinerary, calling at ports historically linked with the Company, and once we had the business plan and financial backing, we knew all might be well. The good ship VICTORIA was chartered for 66 days, and I was invited to sign the charter party document on behalf of Union-Castle Line. Even more hard work then commenced. I was not involved in the day-to-day running of the office but as an ex-employee of the Company (as a sea-going Purserette), I was in a unique position to join the management team. I sailed on the Centenary Voyage both as a director of the re-launched company and as liaison between my boardroom colleagues and the Captain, and it was extremely hard work and a bitter-sweet experience on board.

Ships seen in Naples: Laurana, Demonios, Rhapsody, SNAV Lazio, Rafaelo Rubatino, Cartour Gamma, Fauno, Driadne, Island Princess, Don Peppino, Sovereign, Celestina, Moby Bastia, Grimaldi's new vessel in drydock, Patrizia, Ala, Rosa d'Abundo, Nilo (new hydro-foil? on stocks), Ponza Jet, Zenit, Marine Club, SNAV Orion, SNAV Aurora, Vetor 944 ? hydrofoil, SNAV Achione (old Norwegian ferry, still with black hull), Isola de Procino in dry dock, Anna Maria Lauro, Paolo Veronese, Antonio Amabile, Superfast Canarias, Arv 2, Achernar, SNAV Aquila

To be continued...

Wednesday 24th June 2015
On board LAURANA my alarm clock woke me from a deep sleep as planned, ready for our call at Stromboli. It was barely light outside, and the lack of hot or even warm water in the bathroom was an unwelcome shock. It's at times like this that some of us remember the old childhood idea of 'a lick and a promise', so a thin towel and cold water had to suffice. The cabin had been very cold in the night, with the air-conditioning roaring noisily through the ventilator, so I had been extremely glad of the thick Adriatica red blanket on my bed, but I now realised that it was probably designed to dull the smell of diesel in the cabins and corridor. I was glad to get out on deck and see where we were.

It was interesting and rather awe-inspiring to realise we were following a route of active Italian volcanoes, from Vesuvius looming over Naples, to the islands of Stromboli and Vulcano, and then further south to Mt. Etna on the island of Sicily. We could see wisps of lava cloud issuing from one of the craters on the top of Stromboli and suddenly all the imagined pictures became reality in front of us.

Italian volcanos (from Google)

Stromboli ahead

Smoke from the crater

Dog passenger

Meeting another one

Nearing the town

More daylight and more smoke

Approaching part of the town

Round a bit futher

Rock and lighthouse

MSC ship in the distance

Attilio Ievoli JR passing by

Possible landing area on the rock

Although it was almost 6 a.m. and barely light we still had a couple of miles to go before reaching the little town and jetty. I hadn't realised that the island was inhabited but in fact many people were getting ready to leave LAURANA and as we came closer and manoeuvred to get the stern ramp on the jetty, we could see low level buildings on the flatter land near the jetty and about twenty vehicles lined up ready to board the ship. The beaches were black of course with the lava deposits, but there was green vegetation just above them in this area.

Stromboli buildings

Along a bit further

And there was the jetty

Turning and lining up

Waiting for us

Ramp down

The ramp went down, about sixty people disembarked with their pull-along cases and occasional dog, and were soon to be seen making their way along the jetty and then the road. Some people were met by little open-top vehicles which soon disappeared with passengers and luggage.

And they were off...

Nearly all have left the ship

Local Police

Black beach

The dog has seen it all before

Nearly everyone has gone

The aged local black dog on the jetty barked his last message, the police watched the ramp go up, and within 15 minutes we were again on our way, sailing in the Tyrrhenian Sea towards Ginostra, Panarea and S.M. Salina.

Goodbye Stromboli

Lava flows

Full steam ahead for Ginostra and Panarea

I went back to bed and the Adriatica blankets and slept for another hour and missed the next ports of call, but back on deck the coffee and croissants in the bar were good and so was the subsequent restful time on deck enjoying the sea and sunshine. Even some time after leaving Stromboli we could see the little cloud of lava rising high into the sky from her summit.

Our funnel and Siremar logo

View on the top deck

Next we headed to Rinella to disembark and embark more passengers, again within about 15 minutes, and then we were off to Lipari.

Approaching Rinella

Rinella

A view to my right

A view to my left

and off again

Blue sea

Cultivation

Lipari is the largest and most populated of the Aeolian islands and seems to be a bigger and more popular destination, as the Pilot came on board and guided us past two cruise ships: STAR BREEZE and SEA DREAM II already in the bay.

Pilot coming to take us into Lipari

Sea Dream II at Lipari

Star Breeze at Lipari

Part of Lipari

At Lipari

Passengers surged off here and I think a few embarked, but LAURANA was beginning to feel fairly quiet and empty now, as we set off for Vulcano - late again. I had found a timetable by this time and it showed the sailings north and south to these volcanic islands during the months June to September.

Laurana as built

Built in 1992

Ship Schedule

Laurana as built

Eschilo arriving

Approaching Vulcano

Eschilo leaving

Antioco arriving

Vulcano is another seemingly popular volcanic island, judging by the little local Siremar fast ferries we saw in the harbour. Again, our passengers disembarked and we began to feel we were on a ghost ship for a moment, especially as the bar stopped serving coffee or cool drinks once we left at 11.45 a.m. We were over an hour late by this time, but it was lovely out on deck in the sunless heat as we sailed towards our final destination of Milazzo, on the north coast of the island of Sicily.

About 1.30 we arrived in Milazzo, about an hour and a half later than scheduled, but we were soon standing on the quayside beside LAURANA. She had been an interesting ship and we felt so glad we had travelled on her; her itinerary was unforgettable and it had been an amazing journey. I don't think I smelt the sulphur but I could certainly see the lava flows and some smoking craters as we wended our way to call at these volcanic islands, on a very interesting ship.

Laurana moved to another quay in Milazzo

Map of Sicily

We had time now to find a local restaurant before catching an hourly Giuntabus to take us along the autostrada to Messina, our port of embarkation for our next sailings across the Straits of Messina. We love the local delicacy of arancini - crispy deep-fried balls of cheese and rice - so these were the starter before Italian pizza and cool drinks. We could look out at the water and notice that LAURANA had moved berths, which gave us another chance for photos after lunch.

Looking good - goodbye Laurana

Ships seen: Laurana, Attilio Ievoli JR, Sea Dream II, Star Breeze, Mirella Morace, Eschilo, Ariston (coaster of Marmaris), Antioco

To be continued...

24th June 2015 continued

In Milazzo after lunch the Giuntabus took us to Messina in fifty minutes, and then we could walk to the railway station to check train times for one of my friends to make his way home to the UK. Our overnight hotel was closed so rucksacks had still to be carried but there was time for my friends to discuss onward sailings before we parted company. It had been good fun to travel together.

Goodbye SNAV Aquarius

Two of us therefore made our way to the railway station to buy tickets and find our way to the platform for the train ferry sailing across the Straits. The whole night train was going to Milan, made up of half a train from Palermo and half a train from Siracuse; once combined they would make up a complete train which had to be loaded onto the train ferry across the Straits of Messina, in sections to fit, before combining again on the mainland side to make its way all the way up to Milan in northern Italy overnight. We would not be doing this of course, but simply crossing the Straits.

We boarded the train and watched in fascination as we heard, felt and saw the train approaching the train ferry. We were to sail on the MESSINA, from Messina, across the Straits of Messina - which I thought was a very satisfactory thing to do!

Through the train window

Getting off the train on board

Down on the deck

The train deck

I gather that due to limited space, the linkspan has various tracks for different lines on to the ferry and dock lines. These can then be raised or lowered according to the tides; as the line is not electrified onto the linkspan, the diesel shunter is used for the first few metres between the limit of electrification and the ferry, and then it leaves.

Our section of carriages was the first part to be separated from the complete train, and we were shunted onto one side section of the train ferry. We were in part-daylight so we could look through the grubby glass window and see one of the marshals on the deck nearby. Once we were secured and the shunting engine went back for another section of train, we could get off the carriage and climb the nearby stairs up to the train ferry deck.

On deck

At the port

Lounge seating

Another view

2013 plate

Bow door open and up

Looking back to the Maritime terminal

Deck Plan

Looking down from the 'bridge'

Looking towards the stern ramp

The 'bridge' over the train carriages

"Villa" lifeboats on the quayside

MESSINA was built in 2013, at 5,700 gross tons as a ro-ro train ferry, to sail for RFI between the port of Messina on Sicily and Villa San Giovanni on the Italian mainland. In February 2015 it was announced that part of the train ferry service was to close, with only the one night sleeper remaining, so we felt so glad to see this new ferry. We had enjoyed sailing on the train ferry ROSALIA across the Straits in July 2008 and had happy memories of those trips. This new ferry was very light and bright on board, with spacious bar and seating areas; out on deck we liked the little 'bridge' effect over the railway carriages below on the train deck, so that we could stand and look down and see what was happening. Soon the shunting and loading was complete, the ramp came up and we were off.

There were several other ferries around us as we sailed on this new vessel, and like us they were heading across the Straits of Messina to or from the mainland.

Tremestieri far away

Tindari Jet

Soon we had arrived at Villa San Giovanni and the whole process of getting the train carriages off the ferry began. We returned to one of the carriages and watched the marshals outside on this lower deck. The shunter arrived to take our carriage off the ferry, and then we were amazed to see a railway man standing down below our forward-facing window waiting to couple the carriage and the shunter together. He had to stand below the joint and wait to do his work, all the while avoiding the huge moving parts coming towards him. This looks a dangerous job and I can only hope he is well rewarded!

Down on the train deck

Waiting for the linkspan to align

Nearly there

and again

Train leaving

Our turn to be attached

Soon the whole train was complete again and could be taken to the station. We finally disembarked onto a platform, and watched as preparations were made for the train journey north to Milan overnight. Coo, this reminded me of a journey in reverse last year (Ferrying in '14, see blog) when we left Milan to come south on the overnight sleeper train along the Italian east coast to Ostuni.

We finally left the station and made our way out to the Bluferries fast craft TINDARI JET for the journey back to Messina.

Tindari Jet of Bluferries

That took just 20 minutes and soon we could disembark and watch MESSINA leave the harbour for another trip from Messina across the Straits of Messina - just as we had done, but on a train.

Nice view back at Messina

Messina the ship

We walked to the Hotel Garibaldi and checked in, with a warm welcome. An evening meal at a nearby local restaurant was next, and I enjoyed a wonderful salmon ravioli dish. It had been a fascinating day again.

Ships seen: Laurana, Sea Dream II, Star Breeze, Mirella Morace, Eschilo, Ariston (coaster of Marmaris), Antioco,

and then this afernoon: Wilhelmshaven (Stena ro-ro), Tremestieri, Riace, Messina, SNAV Aquarius, Villa, Logudoro, Vestfold, Tindari Jet, Enotria, Fata Morgana, Isola di Stromboli, Pace (on drydock),

To be continued...

Thursday 25th June 2015

View from the hotel room

There was no need for an alarm clock this morning, as we had time for breakfast looking over the harbour of Messina before checking out of the hotel. The new tram service ran along the side of the bay so we could catch that to go along to the other ferry quay. We soon boarded the 8,383 gross tons car ferry VESTFOLD of Caronte & Tourist, which was built in Norway in 1991, for the journey across the Straits of Messina to Villa San Giovanni.

Vestfold

Walking on board

It was difficult to photograph the wall map of the Straits through the glass, but it gave some idea of the routes of the two services across the water. We could also see that the ship can hold 587 passengers.

Deck plan

Bar on board

Top deck

Map of part of the Straits

Florists

Original

Then we found a notice board with the original heading of Skipsinformasjon on the top of it.

Approaching the quay

As we disembarked we could see the ship's original port of registry - Horten - just visible on the hull. Out in the Straits we could see the cruise ship SEVEN SEAS MARINER heading north.

Vestfold

The sun was shining and it was hot and comfortable and the colour of the water below our quay was a beautiful colour, as we waited to board.

Lovely colour water

VESTFOLD sailed back to the Messina side and another ferry sailed over to where we were waiting. This was the 1993 Norwegian-built TREMESTIERI, the ex-KONINGIN BEATRIX, at 5,042 gross tons, and I was pleased to see her original name on the hull.

Regent's Seven Seas Mariner

Tremestieri of Caronte & Tourist

Ex-Koningin Beatrix

Names on the hull

Onto the car deck

Down on the breakwater

I liked this skyline on board

The Bar

Self-service

We saw several other ferries before we sailed back to the Messina side of the Straits, including an enormous China Shipping Line vessel.

Stretto Messina

Fata Morgana

China Shipping Line

Archimede

Villa at a distance

Riace

Mirella Morace, with Vestfold in the background

Busy Bar

Cars on deck

Some more cars on deck

Tindari Jet, that we travelled on yesterday

Giuseppe Franza

Life ring

It felt like lunchtime by now and we decided to enjoy the air-conditioned self-service restaurant at the ferry terminal on the waterside. Its ice creams are remembered with great affection by some of my friends, I recall. The hot and cold dishes, and fruit, were very welcome today and fortified us for another bus journey back towards the Messina railway station.

Ships seen so far today: Vestfold, Stretto Messina, Mirella Morace, Giuseppe Franza, Seven Seas Mariner, Tremestieri, Fata Morgana, China Shipping Line vessel, Archimede, Villa, Tindari Jet, Riace

To be continued...

Thursday 25th June 2015 (continued)

At the railway station we bought tickets for Palermo, further west along the northern coast of Sicily, and caught the 13.50 train. During the journey I enjoyed dozing, listening to music, or drinking water, and I finally managed to finish reading last Friday's English daily newspaper. I had been reading various pages over the week, and discarding them for recycling as I went, but this all made very little difference to the weight of my rucksack.

Sleeping dogs

Train in Palermo station

We arrived at Palermo station at 17.29 later that afternoon, in great heat, and immediately noticed the sleeping dogs lying on one of the platforms. We all know what we have to do with them, don't we. We decided to take a taxi to the port, as it was some distance away, and once there we could see our ship for the night's sail from here in Palermo: SNAV SARDEGNA, of Grandi Nave Veloci (GNV).

SNAV Sardegna

The sign at the quayside

My friend wanted to photograph some other ships so I climbed the metal staircase on the quayside and boarded the vessel midships. She seemed huge after the morning's little ferries; she is 33,336 gross tons, was built in 1989 as OLAU HOLLANDIA, became PRIDE OF LE HAVRE, and then SNAV SARDEGNA. I looked around some of the public areas and was particularly impressed with some of the original artwork in Reception.

Outside cabin 7117

Deck 7

Original artwork

Reception

One of the lounges

Huge mural

Life ring

Work in progress - MSC Opera and Palladio

Out on deck I could see LA SUPREMA in her new logo paintwork, which is not universally popular I believe. It is certainly noticeable.

La Suprema in her new paintwork

Legs on board

Black smoke for 10 minutes

Minerva Uno

Black smoke was coming out of our funnels for about 10 minutes, but once the ropes were let go we knew we were about to sail, on time, at 8 p.m. We saw the Pilot boat approach our starboard side, and then could see the Pilot himself stepping on the bow of his vessel. He held a mobile phone tightly to his right ear with his right hand all the time we could see him, and presumably was also talking into it; as we watched he continued talking into his phone as he stepped onto the inside deck of the SNAV SARDEGNA. The pilot boat pulled away and we gathered speed and turned to leave the harbour. I have never seen a Pilot board a vessel in this way before, and can't believe he was talking to the Captain. Hmm, seems a bit of a cavalier approach to what I always thought of as a professional job of work......

Palladio in a sorry state

TransHawk

La Suprema with the new GNV logo

Splendid with the old logo

On the way out of the harbour we passed a small ship A F MICHELA which was half painted, as if her future life might be changing. I later discovered that this was her eighth name since she was built in 1974, and I have seen her before but with one of those previous names.

A F Michela half-painted

One of my friends said she is a really fascinating ship, and that he can claim something of a personal interest in her. "Like the Laurana she is ex-Adriatica, although from a slightly earlier, 1970s, generation. She did some really long voyages in her time, such as Venice-Dubrovnik-Piraeus-Heraklion-Alexandria, one of the final great cross-Med ferry routes. She was rebuilt in the early 90s but, before that, Michael Palin travelled on her when he went around the world in 80 days: http://palinstravels.co.uk/book-8. There is a brief history of the ship: http://www.adriaticandaegeanferries.com/adriatica/eseeng.html here."

My friend notes the last page hasn't been updated for her most recent sale, which is to local Sicilian operators for use to the remoter islands around the coast of Sicily. Now we know why she was only half-painted when we saw her.

My friend also notes that

"She is something of a personal favourite as she was my very first Southern European (outside the Canary Islands) ship when I sailed on her during her final years with Adriatica from Brindisi to Patras back in August 1999 - so she was the first of many! We caught up with her again in 2011 on what was a rather damp sailing to Albania and she is very '1980s Adriatica' on board, similar in some ways to the Laurana."

Leaving Palermo at dusk

Leaving Sicily

After sailing from Palermo in Sicily, we were heading for Naples, back on the Italian mainland, where we are due at 6 a.m. tomorrow. We made our way to the formal Restaurant, which was about a quarter full, for an evening meal. It was very cold in there and I had to collect some warmer clothing; the waiting staff had a very casual attitude to taking orders or delivering them, but the food was pleasant. After dinner I had a final warming-up session by going to the disco and dancing with some charming Italian ladies who made me welcome, so the evening ended on a high note.

Ships seen: A F Michela, SNAV Sardegna of GNV, Splendid, La Suprema in new GNV colours, TransHawk, Palladio of Siremar being worked on, MSC Opera also being worked on, Minerva Uno

To be continued...

Friday 26th June 2015
On board SNAV SARDEGNA we are due in Naples at 6 a.m. and I notice that my first photograph of the day is taken just after that, so we must be running a little late. We are part of the morning ferry arrivals, although I can see a couple of cruise ships following us in: ISLAND ESCAPE and ALLURE OF THE SEAS.

Vincenzo Florio, Vesuvius, Fincantieri

Naiade and Benito Buono

Watching Allure of the Seas

I saw three ships come sailing in

MSC Divina

Island Escape

Island Escape

We are approaching an unexpected berth, not at the maritime terminal, but no-one seems to know why. Some of us are watching what is happening on our port side, and that's when I hear shouting and see arm-waving from the quayside. Just a few feet away from our hull is an unexpected small rowing boat, and it is not the 'ropes' man for our ship; in fact as the rower idles for a moment a dark shape emerges from the water and it is seen to be a diver in a wet suit! This obviously causes consternation as the diver hauls himself very quickly into the tiny rowing boat, and the rower starts to row away from the quay. This causes even more consternation as he is seen to be heading straight for one our ropes being towed by our own 'ropes' man. The rower suddenly realises what is happening and hurriedly changes direction (still rowing and facing backwards of course) and missed our trailing rope by nothing much. He could be seen rowing all the way across the harbour at some speed for some time...

Mysterious diver

Just avoiding the ropes man

After that excitement, things settled down and we were tied up safely, but none the wiser about the diver in the wet suit or the contents of the rowing boat. We were also none the wiser about disembarking from SNAV SARDEGNA. We passengers hovered around the lounge, bars or reception areas, but nothing happened and there were no announcements. Out on deck however we realised that the giant ALLURE OF THE SEAS had taken up our expected berth (and probably others too) so we had been allocated one that had no gangways or facilities for cars, ramps or foot passengers. We could see eventually that every car or lorry on board had to get off the ship one at a time, wait to make a sharp turn, and then join the nearby roadway. A break was made during this activity and foot passengers were marshalled down various stairs and decks until we could finally walk off the ramp on to ground level. I think we disembarked at 7.35 a.m.

Difficult for drivers

I rushed past these

We walked very fast after this, round and out of the ferry port, past the maritime terminal, and down to the ticket office for the Ischia ferries. This was very busy and we discovered there was only one man on duty selling the Ischia tickets; luckily for a lot of us hoping to get the 7.45 a.m. ferry to Ischia, there was a man from the ferry itself who seemed to know about the SNAV arrival delay and sent a message to 'hold the ferry'. Lots of us almost flew the last few yards to the vessel, and thanked them for waiting for us. We fell into lower deck seats and breathed heavily for some time.

On board Aldebaran

More seating

We are to sail from Naples to the island of Ischia, calling at the island of Procida on the way, with the whole journey taking just under an hour. We are on board ALDEBARAN, built in 1987 at 224 gross tons, and a fast craft sailing for Caremar. We left Naples harbour slowly but once beyond the breakwater picked up speed and rose above the water. Many passengers left at Procida and some got on; we had time to look at a notice about pets on board which must be in a Pet-Bag.

Pets on board

Aldebaran

Now we can see what Aldebaran looks like

Naples and Ischia

Soon we arrived at the island of Ischia and disembarked, and enjoyed walking around the port town of this popular and beautiful island. There was time for a coffee break before making our way slowly round to another part of the bay for a ferry back to Naples.

Ships seen: Island Escape, Allure of the Seas, SNAV Sardegna, Aldebaran, MSC Divina, Niaide, Vincenzo Florio, Benito Buono

To be concluded...

Friday 26th June 2015 (continued)
This is the last day of my holiday and I planned to make the most of it, by enjoying this first ferry ride to Ischia and then sailing on another one back to Naples.

Naples and Ischia

Ischia

Blue sky, flowers, scooter, heat

My travelling companion will be sailing part of the way back but will disembark at Procida for an overnight stay before he flies home tomorrow. It is a small island, with ruined remains of its founding in the 8th Century BC, as well as more modern delights and ferries.

The harbour entrance to the port of Ischia is narrow and it was easy to see when our next ferry came sailing in: it was ROSA D'ABUNDO, sailing for Medmar. Medmar changed its name in 2002 from Linee Lauro, and this was one of the ships in their fleet at the time. She was built in 1981 as the ANGELINA LAURO, at 851 gross tons.

Here's our ferry

Rosa d'Abundo

There was a very efficient man on the quayside telling us all where to stand, please, so that the disembarking passengers and vehicles could get off the ship safely - some people tried to ignore him, at their peril, as he wanted the ship cleared quickly! It was interesting to watch his style of working, which he has obviously perfected over the years.

Waiting, waiting...

Soon we were allowed to walk on board and look around this little ship which had blue furnishings and was cool and welcoming on board. Many of us chose to sit up on one of the canvas-roofed open decks to benefit from the sea breeze. The sun shone, the sea sparkled and there was lots to look at as we sailed at 10.35 a.m. from Ischia towards Procida and Naples. We seem to have done a lot today already, in a comfortable and leisurely way, after the early race from SNAV SARDEGNA.

On board

Blue on board

One of the open decks

Agata

Tourist Boat Secondo

Fauno

Naiade

We arrived at Procida and there were fond farewells between the two of us, as passengers left the ROSA D'ABUNDO and others came on board.

Macaiva at Procida

I waved at the quayside and then sat back on the top deck under cover, to continue to enjoy the delights of being at sea.

Aldebaran, which we sailed on this morning

Approaching Naples again

Isola di Capri

Benedetta II

Don Peppino

Giove Jet

Rhapsody

Laurana tucked in, good to see her again

Catania

Capri

Driade

Back in Naples I disembarked with everyone else, went through the passenger terminal and was glad to see a free blue shuttle bus waiting to take us all to the Maritime Molo. Then I did a hot little walk to the Pic Nic cafe, which I'd located on the internet. Not only did they make and sell fresh salads and other food and drink, but they also sold Airbus tickets at a discount; I could sit in the shaded comfort of the cafe and enjoy my lunch before I had to catch the bus to Naples Airport from a nearby stop. I waited beside the bus stop in the shade of a very wide advertising pole (inspired positioning on my part) and was surprised at the number of taxis that pulled up and offered to take nearby bus passengers to the airport for some expensive fare. The bus arrived and I was soon at the airport, ready to fly home to the UK and resume my other life.

Ships seen: Rosa d'Abundo, Catania, Driade, Don Peppino, Allure of the Seas, Laurana, Vincenzo Florio, Rhapsody, Capri, MSC Divina, Giove Jet, Benedetta II, Isola di Capri, Island Escape, Aldebaran, Macaiva, Fauno, Naiade, Tourist Boat Secondo, Agata

It was a long time since that e-mail arrived on Christmas Day 2014 inviting me to join two of my friends for ferrying in June and we had all been looking forward to it as the plans were made by them. My holiday had been fascinating, travelling on many interesting ships, in good company, and I felt so lucky to have been Ferrying in '15.

THE END

This trip is going to be quite different, as I will be sailing on a German ship, from a German port, with all my arrangements made in German on the TUI website. I was glad of the Google Translate website to help me book one of the few cabins available for single use: this year's Ocean Liner Society group cruise is to be 5 nights on the ship MEIN SCHIFF 4.

Friday 4th September 2015
I flew from London Gatwick airport on a supposedly early flight, delayed apparently by volume of traffic, direct to Hamburg in Germany. The queue for Passport Control after we arrived there was long but I was entertained by fellow travellers from the Apple Corp. I was soon on the S1 train heading for the River Elbe and the Landungsbrucken station. I was booked into the nearby Hotel Stella Maris for 3 nights so I could enjoy the sights of this delightful maritime city. Once again in my life I knew I was "Following in Father's Footsteps": he was here on the Blue Star cruise ship ARANDORA STAR as a junior engineer in the early 1930s.

Cap San Diego

Looking right

Looking left

Marie Frisium

Rickmer Rickmers

Rickmer Rickmers dressed overall

Schaarhornn

I joined friends for dinner and felt the holiday had started in a very convivial way, especially after receiving a gift from one of my friends.

Ships seen: Cap San Diego, various tugs and small river craft, the 3-masted Mare Frisium, the little white-hulled Schaarhorn with her yellow funnel, Rickmer Rickmers with all her flags out, many small river craft, Peter Pan (I sailed on her in January 2008) and Huckleberry Finn tiny ferry models

To be continued...

Saturday 5th September 2015
After an early breakfast at the Stella Maris hotel in Hamburg I was collected by some of my friends, ready to pick up a hire car and drive up to Brunsbuttel. This is the town at the end of the Kiel Canal, on the River Elbe. We planned to sail on the 12.10 ferry across to Cuxhaven, near the mouth of the River Elbe.

The route from Brunsbuttel to Cuxhaven

Locks at the start of the Kiel Canal

Red arrow marks the linkspan pier on the plan

The pier and linkspan

A passing ship

Saaremaa arriving

About to drive on board

Builders plate

The weather was bleak, grey and wet, with occasional sunshine. The ferry was late arriving at the pier linkspan because of the strong wind so we didn't leave until 1.10, but hot soup and rolls in the ship's cafe soon restored our spirits. The ship was SAAREMAA, built in Norway in 2010, and joining this route only on 20th August this year.

Anne Marie Bistro, serving goulash soup

Life ring

OOCL Montreal heading into the Kiel Canal

In the cafe

Godmother

Ship details

Neuwerk

The big Pilot mother ship Weser

Waiting to disembark

Once in Cuxhaven and in sunshine we could be tourists and enjoy coffee, apple strudel and ice cream, before driving around to see the famous ATLANTIS at her berth.

Atlantis, well tied up at Cuxhaven

Atlantis

It was interesting to note that the ferries out of Hamburg today had been cancelled, because of the strong winds. It seems that even the never-to-be-forgotten HALUNDER JET has had to stay in port and not travel to Helgoland, in South Utsire!

Today's ferrying trip was in fact our Plan B because we had booked to travel today on the new HELGOLAND ferry from Hamburg to Helgoland and back. She was built but having problems, before being handed over to Casson Eils for use. We saw the advertisements for her in Cuxhaven but no starting date was now shown.

The new Helgoland ferry we should have been on

We three travellers had all experienced what felt like life-threatening sailings on other journeys to Helgoland and were really looking forward to a safe and enjoyable trip on the new ferry. Ah well, we each received refunds on our tickets and looked forward to being able to sail on her in the future.

Muhumaa back to Brunsbuttel (gross tons 1,700)

Nautica leaving the Kiel Canal for Amsterdam

Then it was time to catch the ferry MUHUMAA back to Cuxhaven, leaving at 5.05 p.m and arriving at 6.30 p.m. Once back in Brunsbuttel it was decided to head a few miles alongside the Kiel Canal because there was a tiny ferry there, just waiting to be used to take us across the Canal!

Our Stettin ferry route, shown on the map, just on the other side of Brunsbuttel

This was the little STETTIN, which held 4 cars and some pedestrians.

About to board the Stettin

Driving on

On board the Stettin

The Berlin passing us in the other direction

Then we returned to the main route back to Hamburg, following the end of a rainbow, under a grey sky. The hire car was returned and we made our way back to the hotel for a very satisfying dinner.

Ships seen: Saaremaa, Arabian Breeze, Elizabeth Rus of Transferrica, ER Athina, Yan Cux 2, Neuwerk (Coastguard), Blue Bella, Patricia Esberger, Blue Antares, Deo Volente, Neckar High, Atlantis, Flipper, WMS Groenigen, Muhumaa, Timbus, Wolf 7 tug, Seagard of Transferrica, Nautica the cruise ship exiting the Kiel Canal on her way to Amsterdam, APL Changi, OOCL Montreal, Stettin the tiny ferry across the Kiel Canal, St. Johannes, Berlin

To be continued...

Sunday 6th September 2015
This morning at breakfast I was pleased to meet up with two more friends joining the OLS group trip on MEIN SCHIFF 4; we are doing different things today but arranged to meet back at Stella Maris this evening to walk to the other hotel for dinner. I am joining a 'Walk to Miniatur Wunderland' little group and I soon fell into step in the morning sunshine. I do love visiting the many floors of this old warehouse - it is a place of absolute wonder to anyone who likes transport of all kinds, models, physical geography, miniatures, etc. Officially it is described as "The World's Largest Model Railway". A group booking visit had been arranged for an early time slot so we simply had to pay for the entry tickets and enter whatever part of the world we first fancied seeing in miniature (www.miniatur-wunderland.de).

I soon found my way to the Hamburg airport and just love the way this has been developed. Where else could I see Concorde land, or the Space Shuttle for that matter? (That is, apart from the Specsavers television advertisement in the UK.) The arrivals and departures board is fun to read, as well as watching all the movements around the airport too. Watching the model planes actually land and depart is so enjoyable.

Miniatur Wunderland in miniature

Cap San Diego

Black Prince in dry dock

Black Prince welding

The water looks so realistic

Crowd scenes

Queueing for take-off at the airport

Evening take-off under a rather menacing sky

Concorde arrives!

After a couple of hours seeing the happenings in many parts of Europe in miniature, it was time for a snack lunch in the Cafeteria followed by a visit to the International Maritime Museum. This again is another 'must' for any ship lovers visiting Hamburg I think, and my heart was gladdened by seeing several tiny models of Union-Castle Line ships, as well as many European and Baltic ferries I had been on. The Museum has several floors of many amazing exhibits and displays, and a shop.

Several of us decided to take a ferry home so tickets were bought on the nearby quayside and arrangements made to meet for a final meal in Hamburg this evening.

Ovelgonne

The ferry journey was soon done and I enjoyed seeing other ferries around the river before heading home to the Stella Maris.

Rickmer Rickmers and the dreaded Halunder Jet

Tollerort, amongst other vessels on the River Elbe

Wolfgang Borchert

Harburg

Blankenese

Then it was time to change and go out for dinner at the other hotel and enjoy the evening.

This is the front of the Reception desk at the Hotel Stella Maris, which always amused me.

Ships seen: Blankenese, Jan Molsen, Harburg, Wolfgang Borchert, Ovelgonne, Tollerort, Halunder Jet, Rickmer Rickmers, Cap San Diego, and Black Prince in dry dock and being welded (!) in Miniatur Wunderland.

To be continued...

Monday 7th September 2015
An early alarm call meant shower, breakfast and checkout from Stella Maris could be done calmly and we were soon on our way to Hamburg's Central Station, ready to meet up with our fellow travellers and get the train to Kiel. MEIN SCHIFF 4 will be sailing from that port this evening and we wanted to enjoy the time before we needed to board the ship. The 10.24 train from Hamburg Central took us in just over an hour to Kiel, where we made our way out of the big station and headed the few yards towards the water of Kiel Haven.

Hamburg to Kiel

Kiel Haven

Kiel station

Outside Vapiano

Inside Vapiano

Lady with a little dog - dog being hugged by a member of the public!

Restaurant Vapiano offered its usual delightful variety of food, and we were soon established there. We planned to catch a local ferry up two stops, then get another ferry back one stop, and from there we could walk a short distance to board the TUI ship. It's fun to arrive somewhere by sea.

Ferry timetable

Our route and stops

Our route today

On board Laboe

Laboe

Bulk and Kitzeberg near where we boarded Laboe

Stena Germanica

Color Fantasy

A submarine in the shipyard

The stern of Mein Schiff 4

Mein Schiff 4 near a Costa ship

Costa Pacifica and Mein Schiff 4 at Kiel

Victoria Seaways

Heikendorf

Color Fantasy sailing from Kiel

Schwentine nearby

Mein Schiff 4

The local ferry LABOE took us up the waterway two stops to Reventlou, and shortly afterwards another local ferry HEIKENDORF brought us back one stop to Seegarten; our luggage was soon handed over outside the terminal building and we could join the queue to check in. That was all good fun, even before we boarded the cruise ship!

During the short ferry sailings we had been able to see the other ships in port today, including the COSTA PACIFICA, and the two big tug tenders BULK and KITZEBERG, but of course we were really happy to be able to photograph MEIN SCHIFF 4 from the water.

The check in took some time and, even though the UK is not in Schengen, we still had to hand over our British passports for safekeeping until we disembarked back in Hamburg. Once on board we went to our respective cabins and then met for a cup of tea in the Tag & Nacht (Day & Night) Bistro. My friends had all travelled on a MEIN SCHIFF ship before, so knew what to find and expect around the vessel, but it took me a little while to adjust. I had an inside double cabin for single use, which was a rarity apparently, and was happy with being forward on Deck 10. My daily programme told me that the Captain was Kapitan Todd Burgman.

Public rooms are on Decks 3, 4 and 5, with cabins on Decks 6-11; outside pools, bars and lounges are on Deck 12; there is no Deck 13; Deck 14 has suites, kids club, indoor cycling and other bars and lounges; Deck 15 has the sun deck, plus massage facilities.

MEIN SCHIFF 4 was built in the Meyer Werft shipyard in Turku, Finland, in 2014, for TUI Cruises, which is one of the largest holiday companies in the world. She was floated out on 10th October 2014, and delivered in May 2015 for a naming ceremony in Kiel, which is to be her home port for the 2015 summer. She is 99,430 gross tons, carries a Maltese flag, with a home port shown as Valletta, Malta. She can carry 2790 passengers, with 1030 crew. Her first cruise began on 6th June 2015 so on board she is very new to us boarding her just 3 months later. We will be able to use 11 restaurants including a Surf & Turf Restaurant, Mediterranean and Japanese venues. The line caters to Germans and German is the primary language on board, but our group of 7 were not the only non-Germans on board. I had been told that MEIN SCHIFF 4 (meaning My Ship 4) is part of the fleet offering a casual premium product to the German cruise market, with all-inclusive cruises.

A colour wall

Eye-catching details as I went to my cabin

Theatre

Deck 5

Deck 10

Cabin 10036, a double for single use

Artwork in my cabin

A 4-funnel ship with all 4 funnels smoking? Lusitania? On a German ship in 2015 as a piece of artwork?

Uncomfortable backless seating

Part of the delightful TUI Bar Lounge

I liked this

On deck pre-sailing

In the late afternoon sunshine we could see a large vessel being built in the German Naval Yards across the water of the Kiel Haven. It already had two very tall masts and I later discovered it would be the world's biggest sailing yacht, with three masts, built at a cost of £260 million. It is said to be 468 feet long and will have 300 feet masts, plus an underwater observatory, for Russian industrialist owner Andrey Melnichenko and his wife. The vessel, SAILING YACHT, will start sea trials in a couple of weeks time.

2 masts already on the big yacht being built

Stena Germanica sailing

Botnia Seaways sailing away

We could also watch STENA GERMANICA sail away, and then watch BOTNIA SEAWAYS of DFDS sail from the port of Kiel. I remember standing on the port side of the deck 10 and choosing to stand on the small glass panel on the deck below my feet - I could look down at people on deck 5 I think, a long way down...

As I made my way to my muster station for lifeboat drill I passed a huge model of the ship, with part of one side cutaway - that is always fun to see. The drill was conducted in German of course but on the large screens showing the particular instructions at every muster station I was pleased to see English translations at the bottom of every screen. I thought it was one of the most comprehensive drills I have ever attended.

Ship model

As I prepared for dinner I looked at the artwork in my cabin, and was surprised to see a picture of what looked like the LUSITANIA, with all of her 4 funnels spewing out black smoke.

Sailing from Kiel at sundown

We sailed at 7 p.m. and watched the sun sinking in the west as we headed out of Kiel Haven on our 5 night cruise, heading for our first port of call tomorrow in Copenhagen.

Ships seen: Botnia Seaways registered in Klapeida, Stena Germanica, Mein Shiff 4, Costa Pacifica, Keikendorf, Laboe, Bulum, Schweinhacke, Stadt Kiel, Color Fantasy, Bussard, Sprott, Bulk and Kitzeberg, Victoria Seaways, and the huge private yacht

To be continued...

Tuesday 8th September 2015
Drama started with breakfast, when it was decided to visit the Atlantik Brasserie. All the food was served from a huge trolley which came to our table, and individual selections could be made. I had been told that breakfast in this restaurant would be rather different, and indeed it was. The selection was vast, the presentation first-class and I enjoyed everything I chose. I think we left there after about an hour, having tried all sorts of fruit, meats and pastries, as well as various hot and cold drinks.

I love pink grapefruit

Ship details

We have actually arrived in the port of Copenhagen, Denmark, under a cloudless blue sky, but have no definite plans for the day. Out on deck our attention was soon diverted as we watched the cruise ship MAGELLAN arrive in port and berth nearby. The PEARL SEAWAYS of DFDS was in port at a nearby quayside and across the water I could see the Danish Royal Yacht in a remote berth - such a lovely sight.

Sunglasses on deck

On deck

Pearl Seaways nearby

Magellan arriving

The meerkats were on deck too

On deck

Lovely lines

12 churches or steeples in view

Whales in the Sylt Restaurant area

I took more photographs on my little tour of MEIN SCHIFF 4, including a door leading to the Butchers shop next to the Steakhouse, which was coloured bright red, with a model bull's head, horns and ring through its nose, hanging in the middle. Hmm, how appropriate...

From there on Deck 5 aft it was decided that we should go down to Deck 4 aft to the Cafe Lounge and perhaps enjoy the delights on offer down there. After approaching a staircase I had to stop first to view a mirrored grand piano with the lid up, displaying many bottle of wine standing up inside it. It was in the middle of a bar. A few steps more brought me to a display cabinet showing delicious looking chocolate creations.

Chocolate ship anyone?

Descending a few curved stairs found us all in a very green furnished and painted bar with a wonderful outlook to the water. The menu however offered various coffees to drink, plus various chocolates to drink or eat. That really was an understatement, as several intrepid souls ordered the item that brought them 5 small glasses of chocolate drink with 5 appropriate small chocolate bars to eat. They each made an amazing display, which the rest of us were allowed to photograph. Having been brought up in England and Cadbury's chocolate, this all looked quite overwhelming but it was fun to be given a sip of one of the drinks, and notice that some of our group enjoyed every mouthful.

The chocolate tasting

Back on my tour I saw the Eis counter, with its big variety of ice-creams, the Bakery counter with its appetising selection of freshly baked goodies, the Children's area of the Restaurant with small size portions of fresh meals on offer, the Spa area with its living wall of something green, which looked remarkably like broccoli heads, the nearby forward bar with its wonderful views, the Cabtanz Bar with red roses on the walls, the Neuer Wall shopping 'street' just as in Hamburg, the Japanese food Restaurant area and finally I made my way back to the Gosch Sylt fish restaurant for lunch with my friends. It had been a very interesting morning.

Kids meals

Indoor pool area

Eis Bar

On the way to the Spa area and forward bar (hmm, looks rather like the design on my new T-shirt)

Living wall near the Spa entrance

All on deck 12

The dark Cabtanz Bar, with roses

The roses

Faux-lavender in the day and night bar

In the Hainami Restaurant

In the middle of the Show Bar

Surf and Turf meat display

Buffet Lunch in the Sylt restaurant Deck 12 aft area offered a good variety of food, with the sun beaming down outside. I was pleased to think that I had actually visited the island of Sylt on the Sylt Express ferry, not so long ago, and I have a tiny model ferry to prove it.

Later we met on the quayside to walk along the side of the ship and take photographs of MEIN SCHIFF 4 and MAGELLAN.

Mein Schiff 4 from the quayside

and her stern

Magellan was astern of us

Magellan's stern

The Danish Royal Yacht

We left Copenhagen at 7 p.m. and enjoyed our voyage north, heading for Gothenburg tomorrow. We first watched our ship heading through the Kattegat waters between Helsingor and Helsingborg and I remembered sailing between those ports myself some years ago. This time we could see various ferries in port (HH Ferries) or sailing fore and aft of us as we sailed along.

Aurora of Skandlines

Skandlines aft of us

HH Ferries on our port side, at dusk

Far ahead on the starboard side

Dusk was falling and we soon went for another interesting and delicious dinner. Tomorrow would see us, on board MEIN SCHIFF 4, visiting Gothenburg in Sweden.

Ships seen: Pearl Seaways, Magellan, Danish Royal Yacht, a red-hulled cargo ship in port, Aurora AF forward of us, Hamlet aft of us, and Tyco Brahe in port (I've sailed on her during a trip with the Cinema Theatre Association); HH Ferries two ships Merkandia IV and Merkandia VIII in port.

To be continued...

Wednesday 9th September 2015
Today is a cause for celebration for many of us, with our much-loved Queen Elizabeth II becoming the United Kingdom's longest serving Monarch. I put my celebratory magazine picture out on my dressing table for the day, which I knew would interest and please my two cabin stewards - I met them the other day and they were very happy to speak in English. I learned that one cleans just the cabin bathrooms and the other has responsibility for everything else in the cabins.

Celebration

Today though I was up early for breakfast because some of us were getting off the ship as soon as we had docked in Gothenburg in Sweden. We met at 8.45 a.m. as arranged and took the first shuttle coach into the city. The ship automatically charged me for the shuttle bus when I showed my ship card on boarding the bus, which saved such a lot of time and effort. We had berthed way down river , west from Gothenburg city, in the cargo terminal area, so it was some miles to travel. Once in the city we could walk into a bus and ferry agent and buy combined bus and ferry tickets for a trip out to the islands. The times were checked and we were soon hurrying out to catch a bus to the ferry port of Saltholmen. I feel so lucky with my friends, that they contrive to arrange these delightful extra outings.

Some of the local ferries were already in port but we were aiming to catch the 10.55 a.m. RIVO from Saltholmen south to Kopstadso and back again. The sky was blue, the air clear, the water still and the only sounds were small waves glancing against the quays or nearby rocks.

In Gothenburg, we were way out of town to the west, in the cargo terminal

Stena ferries from the coach

Interesting views from the coach

Ship-like car park

Ferry terminal at Saltholmens

Vesta

Ylva

Vipan

Valo

Ferry routes

It seemed so near...

Vesta left

Rivo arrived, for our first trip of the day

It had taken us about two hours to get to this little port, but just a few miles across the water and beyond the rocks we could actually see our ship, looming large at her berth. RIVO arrived and passengers disembarked and we all embarked, sitting in the main lounge.

Ships heading for the Gothenburg port

Our wake on Rivo

Our route

Our location

We were intrigued to see our wake from the little aft deck area, our route on the display board, and then our location. We disembarked at Kopstadso and barely had our feet touched the quay than the ship was up and away.

Gota II arrived but we didn't want her

We noticed a white-painted box nearby which had the word GODS writ large upon the front, but soon realised the Swedish word translated to freight or goods in English. We also noticed the wheelbarrows.

Gods box and the wheelbarrows

We turned round again and there was our next ferry coming alongside - the SILVERTARNAN - and we set off back to Saltholmens.

Silvertarnan arrived to collect us

Comings and goings

We called here

We went under a road bridge

It was so calm

There were islands and rocks to be seen, various sized small vessels around, birds in the air and on the rocks, and long-distance and short-distance views to be seen everywhere - it was beautiful, and an excellent way and day to be at sea.

Birds and rocks

Over there was this vessel

Back at Saltholmens we sat happily on a bench in the sunshine and waited for our next ferry to arrive.

Vesta

This time we boarded VESTA and sailed off south again to visit several islands on this trip. We called at Kopstadso, Styrso Bratten, Styrso Skaret, Donso, Sjumans-holmen, Karholmen, Vrango, Donso, Stytrso Skaret, Styrso Bratten, Kopstadso yet again, before sailing back to Saltholmens Brygga. It had been a fascinating sail, with lunch on board, and lots to see and admire all the time.

Rather reluctantly we caught a bus back to the city, although this was enlivened by trying to count the number of puppies that came on board with a dog handler and sat very quietly under her seat: I think we counted eight in total, all different breeds.

Two or three more were under the seat

Stena Danica in the distance

Back in the city of Gothenburg we made our way to the shuttle bus and the trip home to the ship. It had been a wonderful day out to the Gothenburg Archipelago.

Back to Mein Schiff 4

Some of our group of seven went to Surf & Turf Restaurant for dinner, whilst some of us went to the Brasserie, but all enjoyed the food and service. Overnight we will continue our way north, and should arrive tomorrow morning in Oslo, Norway.

Ships seen: Rivo, Silvertarnan, Vesta, Ylva, Vipan, Valo, Gota II, Lyron, Stena Scandinavica, Mein Schiff 4, Arlan, Transkar, Ask of Stena Line, Stena Charisma, Stena Danica, Stena Jutlandica, Stena Scanrail, Marieholm the 1934-built little passenger ship now berthed in Gothenburg city, Tor Fionia

To be continued...

FERRYING IN '15 21st June

FERRYING IN '15 22nd June Mega Smeralda

FERRYING IN '15 22nd June, Moby Ale

FERRYING IN '15, 22nd June, Moby Love

FERRYING IN '15 22nd June, Marmorica

FERRYING IN '15 23rd June

FERRYING IN '15 23rd June, Corsica Express Three

FERRYING IN '15, 23rd June, Laurana

FERRYING IN '15, 24th June, Laurana

FERRYING IN '15, 24th June, Messina

FERRYING IN '15, 25th June Messina

FERRYING IN '15, 25th June, SNAV Sardegna

FERRYING IN '15, 26th June, Naples & Ischia

FERRYING IN '15, 26th June, Rosa d'Abundo, the concluding piece

MEIN SCHIFF 4, 7th September 2015

MEIN SCHIFF 4, 7th September 2015, Part 2

MEIN SCHIFF 4, 7th September 2015, Part 3

MEIN SCHIFF 4, 7th September 2015, Part 4

MEIN SCHIFF 4, 7th September 2015, Part 5

MEIN SCHIFF 4, 7th September 2015, Part 6